U-shaped Fork End Shaft Steel Clevis Rod with Pin Hole
  • U-shaped Fork End Shaft Steel Clevis Rod with Pin Hole U-shaped Fork End Shaft Steel Clevis Rod with Pin Hole
  • U-shaped Fork End Shaft Steel Clevis Rod with Pin Hole U-shaped Fork End Shaft Steel Clevis Rod with Pin Hole
  • U-shaped Fork End Shaft Steel Clevis Rod with Pin Hole U-shaped Fork End Shaft Steel Clevis Rod with Pin Hole
  • U-shaped Fork End Shaft Steel Clevis Rod with Pin Hole U-shaped Fork End Shaft Steel Clevis Rod with Pin Hole
  • U-shaped Fork End Shaft Steel Clevis Rod with Pin Hole U-shaped Fork End Shaft Steel Clevis Rod with Pin Hole

U-shaped Fork End Shaft Steel Clevis Rod with Pin Hole

The U-shaped Fork End Shaft Steel Clevis Rod with Pin Hole from Qimao Metal Manufacturer has high performance. We machine it from solid steel bar – usually 1045 or 4140 depending on your job. One end forms the U-shaped clevis. The other end? A straight shaft with a precision-drilled pin hole. We support customization services for you. Tell us about your requirements!

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Product Description

Qimao Metal Manufacturer offers durable U-shaped Fork End Shaft Steel Clevis Rod with Pin Hole for clients. You can slide it into a yoke or cylinder rod end, drop a clevis pin through, lock it with a cotter pin. Done. No threads to strip. No wrestling with nuts. Just a solid pivot joint that takes shear loads all day. Farmers use these on tractor linkages. Mechanics put them on hydraulic cylinders. Even off-road rigs rely on them. The hole diameter tolerance? We hold +/- 0.05mm. Want something different? That’s what "custom" means here – tell us your dimensions.

Let me walk you through what you‘re getting. The U-shaped Fork End Shaft Steel Clevis Rod with Pin Hole has parallel legs – we don’t ship bent ones. Leg width and gap match standard clevis pins, but again, custom is an option. The shaft extends from the fork base. That pin hole at the end? It‘s not an afterthought. We drill it on a CNC mill, so the hole centers exactly. Burrs get removed – no sharp edges to cut your fingers or damage the pin. Surface finish? Usually black oxide for basic rust protection. Or zinc plating if you ask. We also offer raw machining if you want to weld or coat it yourself. Every piece gets a quick go/no-go gauge check before packing. Nobody wants a clevis rod that doesn’t fit. If you‘ve got a drawing, we match it. If you don’t, tell us what machine it‘s going on.


U Shaped Fork End Shaft Steel Clevis Rod With Pin Hole U Shaped Fork End Shaft Steel Clevis Rod With Pin Hole


Product Parameter (Specification)

Model name Material Length
(mm)
Width (mm) Height: Weight (g)
U-shaped Fork End Shaft Steel Clevis Rod with Pin Hole Steel 69.6 10.5 9.8 16.9


• Material Options:The product can be produced by 45# Steel (standard), 4140 alloy steel (higher strength), stainless steel 304/316 (corrosion resistance), etc, by customized.

• Diameter Range: 10mm to 60mm (3/8" to 2-3/8") for shaft section

• Pin Hole Diameter: 3mm to 20mm, tolerance +/-0.05mm

• Fork Leg Width: Custom per your clevis pin size

• Fork Gap (inside): Fits pin diameter + 0.1mm to 0.3mm clearance

• Overall Length: 50mm to 300mm (2" to 12") – longer available

• Hardness: As-rolled ~HB200; heat-treated to HRC 35-42 upon request

• Surface Treatment: Black oxide, zinc plated (yellow/blue), plain, or phosphate


Installation guide

For U-shaped Fork End Shaft Steel Clevis Rod with Pin Hole installation isn‘t complicated, but a few tricks save headaches.

Before you start – Clean any dirt out of the mounting holes. Grit scores the pin surface. Also check that the fork gap matches your clevis pin length. If the pin is shorter than the outside width of the fork legs, it won’t lock.

Alignment – The two parts you‘re connecting need to line up. If they’re offset, the pin binds. Use a pry bar or ratchet strap to nudge things into position. Don‘t force the pin.

Pin insertion – Push by hand. If it hangs up, rotate the pin slightly. Sometimes a burr or a slight mismatch causes drag. If it still won’t go, check your hole alignment again.

Locking – Cotter pin legs spread at least 15-20 degrees. Don‘t mash them flat. Flattened legs can work loose.

Final check – Grab the joint. Try to wiggle it. Slight play is normal – clevis joints aren’t precision bearings. Clunking means your pin is too small. Call us.


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