Copper Plated Internally Threaded Weld Nut for Sheet Metal

This Copper Plated Internally Threaded Weld Nut for Sheet Metal from Qimao Metal Manufacturer starts as a cold-formed blank from low carbon steel. A copper plating is applied to the bottom face—sometimes the whole body. That copper layer isn't decorative. It lowers electrical resistance during the welding cycle, helps the arc strike cleanly, and prevents weld electrodes from sticking. The bottom face features three or four small projections, sometimes called pips. When clamped between a weld gun's electrodes, current passes through the copper plate, melts the projections, and forges the nut onto the base metal. The result is a permanent fusion that often becomes stronger than the surrounding sheet. Internal threads remain clean and within tolerance because the weld happens on the opposite face. No heat distortion. No re-tapping. The pilot diameter self-centers in a pre-punched hole. Sizes run from M3 up to M10, with matching inch threads like 8-32 or 1/4-20. No backside access required. No second operator holding a wrench.

Product Parameter (Specification)

Product Feature

· . Copper plating for consistent welds

Copper lowers resistance, the Copper Plated Internally Threaded Weld Nut gives a faster weld with less spatter. Weld tips last longer because copper doesn't stick to copper. Fewer electrode changes. Less downtime.

· Internal threads stay clean

Weld heat distorts rivet nuts and tapped holes. Not here. The weld happens on the opposite face. The nut body sinks the heat before it reaches the threads. A thread gauge passes after welding. No re-tapping.

· No backside access needed

One-sided assembly. Place the nut, hit it with a weld gun. No second person holding a wrench on the far side. For square tubes, chassis rails, or sealed enclosures, this is the only practical way to add a threaded hole.

· Projections concentrate current

Three or four small pips focus welding current into small points. Consistent fusion with lower amperage. Projections collapse flat during welding. No gap. No rocking. Just a stable mounting surface.

Application

· Automotive panels

Fenders, bumpers, brackets. Drop the nut into a pilot hole, weld it. No reaching inside a pillar or rail. Collision shops use Copper Plated Internally Threaded Weld Nut for Sheet Metal to replace broken cage nuts that spin.

· Electronics enclosures

Mounting PCBs or power supplies inside a welded-shut box. Weld nut goes on before closing. Copper cuts through powder coating during welding. No backside access needed.

· Control panels

Thin sheet metal strips when tapped. Weld nut gives full thread depth. Use for DIN rail mounting or component brackets. Threads stay clean despite paint.

· HVAC equipment

Fan housings and access doors. Sheet metal too thin to tap. Rivet nuts cost more. Weld nut fuses fast. Service techs like them because the nut won't spin.

· Agricultural gear

Tractors and harvesters. Weld nuts go on hidden sides during assembly. Damaged shrouds bolt right onto existing nuts. No fishing for lost cage nuts.

Production Installation & Usage Tutorial

· Step 1 – Prepare the sheet metal

Start with clean, oil-free metal. A punched or drilled hole works fine. No need to deburr. The hole diameter should match the weld nut's pilot. Too tight and the Copper Plated Internally Threaded Weld Nut for Sheet Metal won't seat. Too loose and it shifts during welding. We can provide a hole size chart for each nut size.

· Step 2 – Position the nut

Place the nut with the copper plated face (projection side) against the sheet. The pilot centers itself in the hole. For automated lines, use a vibratory feeder bowl. For hand welding, a magnetic holder or a simple locating pin works. Make sure the nut sits flat. No rocking.

· Step 3 – Set up the welder

Use resistance spot welding equipment. The lower electrode supports the sheet. The upper electrode presses the nut. Copper-tungsten electrodes last the longest. Start with medium electrode force and a short weld time. Adjust until the projections collapse fully.

· Step 4 – Run the weld cycle

Trigger the weld. You will see a small flash. The nut will settle into the sheet. One pulse. Usually 50 to 150 milliseconds depending on sheet thickness. Do not weld twice on the same nut. That overheats the joint and makes it weaker.

· Step 5 – Inspect the weld

After welding, try to spin the nut with a wrench. It should not rotate. The sheet around the nut may show a slight indentation. That is normal. No burn-through on the back side. If the nut pulls off easily, increase weld current or electrode force.

· Step 6 – Test the threads

Run a bolt through the welded nut. It should go in by hand with no binding. If it sticks, the weld heat may have distorted the threads. Reduce weld time or go up one nut size for that sheet thickness.